Every Wednesday, test kitchen manager Brad Leone hits up the farmers' market to stock up on what's fresh and good. This is From the Market, where you can get some inspiration from Brad's bounty.
Typically, Brad Leone, BA's test kitchen manager, confines his market trips to the greater New York City area. But, last week, his travels took him to Italy, where he drank wine, ate cheese, made new friends, and foraged for truffles. While he regrettably didn't sneak any fungi back (at least, not any he's sharing with the class), Leone did drop some truffle knowledge to bring the rest of us up to speed. Here's what he learned on his Italian adventures.
What to Look, Feel, and Smell For
Go on, give ’em a little squeeze. "Truffles shouldn’t be rock hard," says Brad. They should have a little give, but not be soft or mushy. Of course, it goes without saying that you should pass over ones that are downright squishy or moldy. The smell should be very strong—remember, it's technically a fungus—so don't be deterred by a little eau de earth.
How to Store Them
So you've scored a truffle? Lucky you. Conventional wisdom holds you should store your truffles in rice. That's a-okay, says Brad, or you can also keep them in sand or wrapped in a paper towel (but change the towel daily). However you keep ’em, they should be in an airtight container on the top shelf of your fridge. You can even add a little cheese to the container if you want to impart the truffle flavor into it. The real key is to keep the truffles dry; moisture will encourage rotting and make them go bad quickly. To clean, do not wash or submerge in water; just wipe the exterior down with a brush prior to using.
Whoa. Photo: Jessica Koscielniak Photography
